Nearly 30 years after her untimely death, Princess Diana is still one of the best-known women in the world.
The ‘People’s Princess’ was renowned for the compassion she displayed when meeting with the vulnerable, including sufferers of HIV and leprosy.
But Diana also captivated audiences with her enduring style – from her fairytale wedding gown to her iconic ‘Revenge Dress’.
The Princess displayed a fondness for a select group of British designers who played a key role in cementing her fashion legacy.
Here, we explore her under-the-radar collaborations with Victor Edelstein, Bruce Oldfield, Zandra Rhodes, Bellville Sassoon and Jasper Conran.
Victor Edelstein
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Victor Edelstein is best known for his fashion designs for Diana, Princess of Wales, in the 1980s
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A midnight-blue velvet dress by Victor Edelstein transformed Princess Diana into a global icon when she wore it at the White House in 1985. That night she danced with Hollywood star John Travolta. Right: Diana later wore the velvet gown with the Spencer Tiara to a banquet in Bonn, Germany, in 1987
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Edelstein created other elegant dresses for the Princess, such as the above pale pink and polka dot numbers (both pictured in 1988)
Dancing with John Travolta at the White House was the moment that transformed Princess Diana into a global icon.
The Princess was attending a dinner hosted by President Ronald Reagan and First Lady Nancy during her 1985 tour of the United States with Prince Charles.
For the occasion, she donned a midnight-blue velvet dress by British designer Victor Edelstein, making headlines around the world.
Diana wore the off-shoulder dress numerous times, including for her last official portrait, taken by Lord Snowdon in 1997.
Following her divorce from Prince Charles, Diana listed her ‘Travolta’ dress at Christie’s New York in 1997. It sold for £100,000, the highest price ever paid for a dress at an auction.
The garment was later sold in 2013 for £240,000 – another record.
Victor Edelstein also designed a number of dresses for Diana throughout the 1980s.
A notable look featured a monochrome polka dot dress, worn to Royal Ascot in 1988, which wouldn’t look out of place at the racecourse today.
Bruce Oldfield
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Bruce Oldfield pictured with Princess Diana at a gala dinner in aid of the charity Barnardo’s. She is wearing a crushed velvet dress designed by him
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Bruce Oldfield contributed greatly to Princess Diana’s legacy as a style icon (pictured in 1989 and 1985)
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The designer introduced glamour and modern refinement to the royal’s wardrobe (pictured in 1983 and 1990)
Bruce Oldfield launched his eponymous label with a business loan from Barnardo’s in 1975.
The designer, who was making waves in the fashion industry, soon caught the attention of Princess Diana.
She asked him to design an outfit for her to wear while switching on the Oxford Street Christmas lights in 1980.
After the event, Diana became a regular client and continued to showcase Oldfield’s designs for a decade.
His most recognisable look is a silver lamé dress, boasting a figure skimming fit and open back, worn to the 1985 film premiere of A View to a Kill held at The Odeon in Leicester Square.
Oldfield is credited for injecting glamour and modern refinement into Diana’s wardrobe.
In 1990, he was awarded an Order of the British Empire (OBE) for his services to the British fashion industry and continues to work with the Royal Family, namely Queen Camilla and the Duchess of Edinburgh.
Zandra Rhodes
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Diana at Christie’s in New York for a preview party of ‘Dresses, from the collection of Diana, Princess of Wales’. She is laughing with designer Zandra Rhodes, two of whose designs are in the auction
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Zandra Rhodes collaborated with Princess Diana on five occasions (pictured in 1987 and 1989)
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Princess Diana captivates in a white lace dress by Zandra Rhodes at a charity gala in aid of Birthright at the London Palladium in 1987
During a shopping trip with her friend Sarah Ferguson in 1981, Diana wandered into Zandra Rhodes’s London boutique.
The pair browsed the rails like any other customers, despite Diana’s newly-announced engagement to Prince Charles.
Shortly afterwards, Rhodes received a phone call from British Vogue, asking her to submit a design for the bride-to-be’s royal wedding dress.
Although unsuccessful, Rhodes’s extravagant gold pleated dress, featuring a black satin corset, ended up in the possession of another Diana – Diana Ross.
Nevertheless, the designer went on to collaborate with Princess Diana five times.
In 1985, Diana returned to the store and selected a black gown to be remade in pink, a colourway that remains exclusive to the Princess.
She famously chose the pastel dress for a dinner, where she was filmed using chopsticks the wrong way round, during her official state visit to Japan in 1986.
The royal also wore the garment to attend a Torvill & Dean party in 1985 and to Charleston Manor, Seaford, in aid of the London City Ballet and the Purcell School in 1987.
Bellville Sassoon
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David Sassoon and Belinda Bellville of fashion salon Bellville Sassoon in Knightsbridge, 1981
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Bellville Sassoon designed over 70 outfits between 1981 and Diana’s death in 1997 (pictured in 1981 and 1990)
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The Princess of Wales stuns in a bespoke Bellville Sassoon gowns in 1981 (left) and 1982 (right)
Bellville Sassoon dressed almost every female member of the Royal Family, including Princess Diana.
The brand was founded in 1953 by Belinda Bellville, who retired in 1981. The name changed to Bellville Sassoon in 1970 to incorporate David Sassoon, who had joined the company in 1958 and remained for 50 years.
His first royal assignment required Sassoon to select 10 dresses for Diana to wear during her honeymoon with Charles.
He also created her iconic going away outfit – a peach-coloured suit – worn to board the Royal Yacht Brittania before sailing to Gibraltar.
It was the start of a successful working relationship that saw Sassoon design over 70 outfits between 1981 and Diana’s untimely death in 1997.
The British brand created a range of maternity wear for the Princess, including a memorable ruffled red gown, which she wore to the Barbican Centre while pregnant with Prince William in 1982.
Jasper Conran
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Jasper Conran designed clothing for Princess Diana throughout her adult life
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Jasper Conran designed several tailored skirt suits for Princess Diana
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The designer dressed Diana in bright red outfits on numerous occasions. Left: following her engagement to Prince Charles
Jasper Conran once recalled that whenever Diana, Princess of Wales, consulted with him on her attire, her concern was always: ‘What message will I be giving out if I wear this?’
The British designer had the privilege of dressing the Princess on multiple occasions throughout her life.
During her engagement to Prince Charles, Diana famously appeared in a striking red ensemble designed by Conran.
Another notable scarlet outfit, worn during the official naming ceremony of the ‘Royal Princess’ cruise liner in 1984, provided a glimpse into Diana’s charismatic personality.
This outfit was auctioned by Kerry Taylor in 2019 and acquired by Historic Royal Palaces for £62,500.
It now holds a place within the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection, alongside 10,000 other items of royal, court and ceremonial attire, cared for by Historic Royal Palaces.
Conran had a talent for pairing Diana with vibrant colours, such as fuchsia and emerald green, ensuring she stood out amid crowds of admirers.
A memorable example was a skirt suit with matching tie worn during her visit to Livorno, Italy, in 1985.
The creation, inspired by menswear, featured a longline double-breasted blazer and a box-pleated skirt.
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